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1717014 Vol 9 · Issue 10 Download Paper

Fashion Figure Illustration and Western Beauty Standards in Indian Fashion Design Education: A Critical Analysis

Prof. Pravin D. Pavhare

Subject area: Arts, Social Sciences and Humanities  ·  Area of research: Fashion Design

DOI: https://doi.org/10.64388/IREV9I10-1717014

Abstract

The croqui, or fashion figure illustration, is the basis of teaching fashion and clothing designs. However, most fashion illustration figures are based on Eurocentric and colonial ideals of body type which differ from Indian women's bodies. This paper provides a critical analysis of the differences between the fashion figures used in design schools in India and the actual body types of Indian women. It uses de-colonialization, intersectionality and post-colonialism to argue that using Eurocentric fashion figures perpetuates existing systems of discrimination against women by their bodies and negatively affects the effectiveness of education in design. It will also present solutions to create India-specific fashion figure reference materials that represent all of the various body types of Indian women while being true to indigenous aesthetics.

Keywords

Fashion Figure Illustration, Croqui, Indian Women's Body Types, Western Beauty Standards, Decolonizing Fashion Education, Anthropometric Data, Body Image, INDIA Size

References

[1] Ahmed, T. (2021). Anti-racist design: A decolonial feminist approach to fashion. In Decolonizing Fashion Studies. University of the Arts London.

[2] Ahmed, T. (2022). What is education in fashion? Reflecting on the coloniality of design techniques in the fashion design educational process. International Journal of Fashion Studies, 9(1).

[3] Brownbridge, K. M., Sanderson, R., & Gill, S. (2016). Aspirational bodies: Fashioning new beauty ideals. Manchester Metropolitan University.

[4] Cheang, S., Rabine, L., & Sandhu, A. (2022). Decolonizing fashion [studies] as process. International Journal of Fashion Studies, 9(1).

[5] Drudi, E., & Paci, T. (2002). Figure drawing for fashion design. Pepin Press.

[6] Gaur, S. (2026). Fitting challenges faced by Indian women in upper garments: Analysing actual body measurements and retail size charts. In Proceedings of the International Conference on Creativity, Innovation & Design (ICCID 2025). Advances in Social Science, Education and Humanities Research, 991. Atlantis Press.

[7] Gill, S., & Sanderson, R. (2013). Redefining the drawn body through investigations of proportional techniques. Manchester Metropolitan University.

[8] Lee, Kyung-Ah & Geum, Key-Sook. (2011). A Study on the Representation of Human Body in Antonio Lopez's Fashion Illustration. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume. 61.

[9] Kim, M. H. (2008). Fashion illustration curriculum: An analysis in pursuit of better design education. Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association, 46(6), 115–126.

[10] Majidi, K. (2020). Norms of beauty in India: Fair is beautiful — A legacy of colonialism and globalization. The Lion and the Hunter.

[11] National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT). (2023). INDIAsize: National sizing survey of India. Government of India.

[12] Reddy-Best, K. L., & Gagliardi, N. (2016). A critical lens on drawing the body: Intersections of gender, race, and size in fashion illustration textbooks. ITAA Proceedings.

[13] Reddy-best, Kelly & Kane, Laura & Harmon, Jennifer & Gagliardi, Nika. (2017). Critical perspectives on fashion textbooks: representations of race, gender, and body. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education. 11. 1-13. 10.1080/17543266.2017.1299226.

[14] Reddy-best, Kelly & Choi, Eunji & Park, Hangael. (2018). Race, Colorism, Body Size, Body Position, and Sexiness: Critically Analyzing Women in Fashion Illustration Textbooks. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal. 36. 0887302X1877914. 10.1177/0887302X18779140.

[15] Ryder, C  (2015) “Animating Fashion Illustration: Diversity in Fashion Film” (illustrations and animation by Carol Ryder, 2015). [Video] ,Liverpool John Moores University.

[16] Sandhu, A. (2022). Mahila à la mode: The auntie-fit croqui. International Journal of Fashion Studies, 9(1).

[17] Akpınarlı, E. (2024). Idealized body image and fashion design education. In Advances in Fashion Design Education Research. Taylor & Francis.

How to cite this paper

Prof. Pravin D. Pavhare "Fashion Figure Illustration and Western Beauty Standards in Indian Fashion Design Education: A Critical Analysis" Iconic Research And Engineering Journals Volume 9 Issue 10 2026 Page 3533-3539 https://doi.org/10.64388/IREV9I10-1717014
Prof. Pravin D. Pavhare "Fashion Figure Illustration and Western Beauty Standards in Indian Fashion Design Education: A Critical Analysis" Iconic Research And Engineering Journals, vol. 9, no. 10, Apr. 2026, doi: https://doi.org/10.64388/IREV9I10-1717014
Prof. Pravin D. Pavhare (2026). Fashion Figure Illustration and Western Beauty Standards in Indian Fashion Design Education: A Critical Analysis. Iconic Research And Engineering Journals, 9(10). doi: https://doi.org/10.64388/IREV9I10-1717014
Prof. Pravin D. Pavhare "Fashion Figure Illustration and Western Beauty Standards in Indian Fashion Design Education: A Critical Analysis" Iconic Research And Engineering Journals, vol. 9, no. 10, Apr. 2026. Crossref, https://doi.org/10.64388/IREV9I10-1717014
@article{1717014,
      author = {Prof. Pravin D. Pavhare},
      title = {Fashion Figure Illustration and Western Beauty Standards in Indian Fashion Design Education: A Critical Analysis},
      journal = {Iconic Research And Engineering Journals},
      year = {2026},
      volume = {9},
      number = {10},
      pages = {3533-3539},
      issn = {2456-8880},
      url = {https://www.irejournals.com/formatedpaper/1717014.pdf},
      abstract = {The croqui, or fashion figure illustration, is the basis of teaching fashion and clothing designs. However, most fashion illustration figures are based on Eurocentric and colonial ideals of body type which differ from Indian women's bodies. This paper provides a critical analysis of the differences between the fashion figures used in design schools in India and the actual body types of Indian women. It uses de-colonialization, intersectionality and post-colonialism to argue that using Eurocentric fashion figures perpetuates existing systems of discrimination against women by their bodies and negatively affects the effectiveness of education in design. It will also present solutions to create India-specific fashion figure reference materials that represent all of the various body types of Indian women while being true to indigenous aesthetics.},
      keywords = {Fashion Figure Illustration, Croqui, Indian Women's Body Types, Western Beauty Standards, Decolonizing Fashion Education, Anthropometric Data, Body Image, INDIA Size},
      month = {April},
      doi = {https://doi.org/10.64388/IREV9I10-1717014}
  }